winnieView

Maintenance Tips

MAINTENANCE CHECKLIST	Below is the list I've been keeping up on for the past few years - just a gentle reminder that your RV needs some love on a regular basis.	[back to top]
	BEFORE EVERY TRIP: Tires: pressure - 61 psi (cold - tire temp 65-70F), cracks, bubbles Chassis exterior lights: running, brake, signals Toad exterior lights (from RV leads): running, brake, signals Chassis fluids: fuel, oil, brake, transmission, windshield washer, DEF Miles until next engine service House electrical system: generator, solar panels charging capacity, inverter, DC/DC charger Fresh water level and water pump: I usually travel at 1/3 tank unless boondocking Refrigerator on and working Propane and smoke detectors operational Insect/dauber water heater and heater screens in place MONTHLY: Generator: run at least 10 minutes under load SEMI-ANNUAL: Check chassis and coach batteries: Remove any corrosion around terminals. If not maintenance free, check water/acid level (top-off with distilled water). Check breaker box: remove front cover and ensure no burnt wires, that breakers and wires are tight Whenever exterior wash Clean solar panels - light soap and water only Inspect roof: loose vents, screws, hoods, etc.; Dicor LAP sealant cracks, pits. Clean A/C filters and vents Treat slide rubber seals (inside and out) with normal cornstarch baby powder - just grab an old sock and fill 1/4 with baby powder, rub on to apply Replace sink drinking water filter Main house door: lube hinges, clean sensor contacts with eraser Check Toad's base plate: clean rust and paint if necessary, tighten bolts Lube all joints on the entry steps with Dry Lube. ANNUAL: Water System maintenance Check/Clean/Replace water pump filter screen and O'ring Check/Clean awning and gutters Check/Clean roof A/C under-hood area including radiator fins. Foam spay to loosen the grime and fin comb to ensure the fins are straight. Annual wash Lube slide rollers and gear rails (dry lube) Lube both side mirror folding arms with (dry lube) Check/replace TPMS batteries, caps, and seals Check spare tire mounts, lube holding bolts, and air pressure Check/replace exterior sealant around garage bay doors, door and side trim Check/replace grey waste valve coupler and Bladex valve, black waste coupler and Bladex valve for cracks, leaks, and seals Replace house thermometer batteries (fridge and water heater area remote sensors too) Perform Refrigerator Maintenance EVERY FIVE YEARS: Replace propane sensor Replace the two sewer Mini-Vent Air Admittance Valves located under the kitchen and lavatory sinks AS INDICATED/NEEDED: Generator engine maintenance: 150 hours or once a year (whichever comes first): change oil, 250 hours: air filter, 500 hours: spark plug Chassis engine service. The service intervals for Service A and Service B on the Sprinter are 20,000 between each. See below
MERCEDES SPRINTER SERVICE CHECKLIST	The following is what I do on the various engine services. The service intervals that MB recommends for Service "A" is 20,000 miles between each one and Service "B" is every 40,000 miles (ex: at 10,000 miles, you will perform a Service "A"; then at 30,000 miles, a Service "B"; then at 50,000 miles, a Service "A"; and so on. So, every 20,000 miles, you will perform one of them). I try and do an oil and oil filter change every 10,000-15,000 miles just to be safe (do not reset counter light). See Parts for details on the correct tools/parts.	[back to top]
	MERCEDES SPRINTER SERVICE "A" - Every 20,000 miles starting at 10,000 miles: Make sure you have some Shop Towels on hand! Oil w/Mobile One EPS (about 14 quarts) and oil filter and "O" rings replacement. You will need a 14mm socket, 84mm aluminum oil filter wrench, an oil drain pan, and a fill funnel. Make sure you clean any dirt/metal shavings out of the oil filter canister before putting the new filter on. Torque for the oil drain plug: 30 Nm (22 ft-lb) Fuel filter replacement. You will need 11-13mm fuel line clamps, 14-16mm fuel line clamps, and Clic and Clic-R hose clamp pliers if the stock clamps are still in use. You should also have an extra fuel filter water extract line clip on hand - I break these every time! Turbo Compensating Ring replacement. Clean EGR Valve with carburetor cleaner. Here is a good instructional video. Inspect braking system and pads Check tire pressure - 61 psi (cold - tire temp 65-70F) Check wiper blades Fluid checks: Coolant, Transmission, Brake, Power steering, Windshield washer, DEF Reset the service counter light MERCEDES SPRINTER SERVICE "B" - Every 40,000 miles starting at 30,000 miles: Do the "A" Service Cabin air filter replacement Engine air filter replacement Brake fluid replacement (flush) - requires about two quarts. You'll want some parts cleaner and, if you don't have one, a brake bleeder. Here is a good instructional video. Transmission service - Best to let the professionals do this one (replace oil and filter every 80,000 miles). If you feel confident in your abilities, here is a good instructional video. Here is what you'll need: the filter and transmission fluid kit. For some reason MB decided not to include a fluid-level Dip Stick. For the flush, you'll need a small plastic funnel and a couple of lengths of 1/4"ID-3/18"OD Tubing Differential service - Every other "B" service (every 80,000 miles): Very easy to do yourself. Park on level ground. No need to lift. Make sure you clean around plugs AND can remove FILL plug before removing DRAIN plug! Looking from the rear, drain plug is on front, lower right. Fill plug is on middle, right rear. Fill/Drain plug is 14mm hex socket and torque is: 74 ft/lbs (100Nm), Oil: MB 235.0 spec 75W-90. Takes about 2 to 3 quarts (Mobil Devac 1 Synthetic Gear Oil) and you'll want a Fluid Pump since this is a gallon container. Reset the service counter light Reset the service counter light: (Video that shows the general process) Switch on ignition and wait for total miles or kilometers to be displayed. If a different screen is shown, push the Upper Display Selection button on the steering wheel (left menu button) until the vehicles mileage displays. Push the up arrow on the steering wheel (left side) until you reach the Service Mileage Counter ("service (scope) in 99999 km/mi") Press and hold the 0 button on the instrument cluster. Hold it until it beeps. This could take about 30 seconds, so be patient Press the Lower Display Selection button on the steering wheel (left side, right button) once Press the up arrow until you reach the screen that says "Service (scope) in 9999 km/mi" Press the 0 button on the instrument cluster and release, it will show "Carry out"/"Complete Service" Press the Up arrow to select "Oil Type" Select 229.31 using the "+" and "-" steering wheel buttons (right side) Select mark the oil type (229.31) using the up arrow on the steering wheel (left side) Press the 0 button on the instrument cluster for about 3 seconds until the display shows "Service Confirmed" Press the up arrow on the steering wheel (left side) Turn the ignition off and then back on. The newly adjusted "service (scope)" will be displayed Reset the transmission shift pattern. Are you experiencing hard shifting after driving on mountain roads? This simple procedure may resolve it! Insert key, turn on (do not start), and wait for initialization to complete Depress the accelerator all the way to the floor and hold it there for one minute Slowly release the accelerator pedal Turn ignition off and remove key Insert key and start Drive for a few miles as normal
WINTERIZING CHECKLIST	Below is the list I use when I park/store the RV during the winter - anytime the temperature will dip below 30 for any prolonged amount of time.	[back to top]
	PREPARE FOR WINTER STORAGE: Top off the Diesel tank with winterized blend If temperature may drop below 12 degrees Fahrenheit, make sure you DEF tank is only half full. Do NOT add any additives when storing or when coming out of storage. Top off windshield washer fluid with winterized blend Prop refrigerator doors open with the plastic clips that are under each of the door's handles If the RV will not remain plugged into power, disconnect the house batteries and hook up trickle charger to chassis battery Remove all bottled liquids and canned foods from RV Disconnect the water Open the primary fresh water tank drain valve inside the water bay Open the two plumbing drain valves (hot and cold) inside the water bay Wait for all water to stop dripping from underneath RV Close the primary fresh water tank drain valve inside the water bay Turn ON water pump until no water comes out of two plumbing drain valves Turn OFF water pump Close the two plumbing drain valves Drain the hot water tank - open the outside door, open the pressure relief valve, and remove the small white plug - STAND BACK! Hot water will flow! Remove the water filter under the kitchen sink and apply bypass plug Turn OFF all faucets and shower Replace the hot water tank drain plug and close the pressure relief valve Hook up compressor to your main water line using this attachment, set the compressor pressure to 50 PSI or less, and turn on compressor Open the kitchen sink HOT water and run until only air comes out. Close Open the kitchen sink COLD water and run until only air comes out. Close Do the same HOT then COLD in the bathroom sink Flush toilet until only air comes out Run toilet sprayer until only air comes out Open the shower HOT water and run until only air comes out. Close Open the shower COLD water and run until only air comes out. Close Open the outside shower HOT water and run until only air comes out. Close Open the outside shower COLD water and run until only air comes out. Close Open the primary fresh water tank drain valve inside the water bay and switch the water fill lever to "tank fill" for about 10 seconds. Close and switch lever back. Open the HOT plumbing drain valve inside water bay until air comes out. Close Open the COLD plumbing drain valve inside water bay until air comes out. Close Repeat the above steps for kitchen sink, bathroom sink, toilet, shower, and outside shower until only air comes out Turn off the compressor and disconnect the flush attachment from the fill hose and, if you have a permanently mounted fill hose, cap the fill hose Add about two cups each of RV anti-freeze (the pink stuff) (Walmart also carries seasonally) to the kitchen sink drains (2), bathroom sink drain, and shower drain. Add about 4 cups to the toilet and flush, then add 2 cups and leave in toilet bowl.
REFRIGERATOR MAINTENANCE CHECKLIST	These are some of the things you should be doing to your Dometic 3-way refrigerator. You have made the investment in a quality refrigerator for your RV. There are things you can do to keep it running for the life of your RV. Some maintenance can be done yourself, but others may require a service technician depending on your comfort level and experience.	[back to top]
	FRIDGE MAINTENANCE: Be sure to check the burner flame for proper appearance. The flame should be light blue. If it has a yellow tip, this means it is burning incorrectly and should be serviced by a qualified technician. Check to be sure there is no spider web, insect nest, soot, or rust on or around the burner. If there is, knock it off with a small screwdriver and clean the area with compressed air or by blowing through a straw. For proper ventilation, keep the area behind your refrigerator clear. Check the upper and lower vents and the area between those openings for any obstructions such as a bird nest. The Fans Modification will help with this. Check all connections in the LP gas system (at the back of your refrigerator) for gas leaks by applying a leak detector solution to all connections. Do not use a flame to check for leaks. The appearance of bubbles indicates a leak and should be repaired immediately by a qualified service technician familiar with LP gas. ADVANCED: Check the 12-volt battery system and wiring with a Multimeter. Battery problems can adversely affect your refrigerator causing intermittent operation or dim interior lighting. Check the battery terminals, electrolyte level for non-sealed batteries, amount of charge, etc. A normal operating voltage is 10.5 to 13.5 volts DC. ADVANCED: Check the propane pressure at the fridge with a qaulity pressure tester. ADVANCED: Clean the flue tube and burner jet. YouTube video on general maintenance
RESET ONEPLACE	Below is the procedure to reset the One Place controller in the View/Navion.	[back to top]
	Hold down for 10 seconds: pump, tank, and battery buttons simultaneously, then release The unit’s software version will display Press and release the ‘pump’ button Press and release the ‘battery’ button Complete - should now show correct tanks, etc.
CAB / SEATS	[back to top]
	I have pretty severe lower spine and leg issues, so driving any distances is impossible. I tried other seat types but found nothing. Then I tried this orthopedic pad. Wow! what a difference! I can easily drive 8-10 hours without pain! I highly recommend this one.
	The armrests in the RV are not comfortable enough for long trips. I tried the gel memory foam "stick on" ones, but they did not do the trick. I got these Memory Form Armrest Pads that have an elevated sloap. They don't make the armrest longer, but they are a bit higher in the front so it feels like they are. They stay in place and are extremely comfortable.
INTERNET ACCESS	[back to top]
	Starlink came out with a service offering for RVer's. They have a mobile cabable dish (InMotion), but very expensive, so I opted for the normal one and attached it to a Flagpole Buddy's pole and Dishy attachement. The monthly service is not cheap, but you can shut it off for the month(s) you don't use it without charge! I still have cellular as a backup which the Pepwave MAX 5G router automatically switches back and forth depending on connectivity. In addition to all the streaming we do, I work remotely, so we have a large need for high-speed reliable Internet service.
	Our current cell providers: AT&T: we have had their service for our entire family with unlimited data for years, we are grand fathered in, so we just added an additional hot-spot line to the plan for about $23/mo. I include this in our Peplink's load balancing.
	Other cell providers we used: T-Moble: We had the T-Mobile "home" internet and took it with us when we go. However, since we added the Starlink RV setup, we opted to remove this plan. It was not as solid everywhere as AT&T, but at $50/month for unlimited data without management, it is a really good solution. I modified modem unit that it comes with to have two external antenna adapters - this made a huge differnce both at home and on the road! It was stable enough to include in the Peplink's load balancing when needed. Visible: we tried Visible but it was too flaky. Our test setup was to use this along with AT&T. The challenge with Visible is that it must be used through a cell phone - we bought the Galaxy A42-5G (because of its modem) - will not work within a hotspot. In addition, the connection can be "managed" or "deprioritized" when demand on their towers requires it. Having said all of that, if you need internet for random emails, etc, this unlimited, and inexpensive plan may be right for you! Check out this page: https://www.visible.com, it has all the info you need to know about joining Visible. Once you are all signed up and activated, make sure you join a party-pay plan - it will reduce your monthly bill to the $25/mo amount. Here is the one I joined VisibleCellular. Because Visible is pretty flaky, no external antenna possible, and only through the cell phones USB connection, We found other alternatives. My1WiFi: this is reseller that has multiple carriers to choose from, is reasonably priced for hotspot use, and can work in a hotspot device. We do not currently use this one, but I've heard good things about them.
	I use the Pepwave MAX 5G router for the AT&T plan with a Parsec Husky antenna with magnetic mount and an 18" ground plane attached to the roof to bring Internet into the RV from cellular and broadcast our WiFi signal throughout. One of the WAN ports on the Pepwave connects to the Starlink. The external antenna also allows us to connect to other WiFi sources for when we are staying somewhere with decent WiFi, usually only when "Moochdocking"; allowing us to bring the Internet into the RV an external WiFi source. The Pepwave also supports the GPS in the Parsec antenna. This is handy because all of the Victron equipment and the Pepwave "InControl" use it and track my position through their dashboards and history. So, no matter where we are or what sort of signals we have access to, we are always connected and all of it managed by the Pepwave router automatically. There are less expensive setups that can work, but remember what I said earlier about my need for high-spped, reliable Internet service. We have rock-solid Internet most everywhere we go.
FRONT STEPS	[back to top]
	My retractable steps were showing their age and very rusty. They also were not closing properly because of the rust and missing rubber bumpers between the steps. The following is what I did to bring them back to life: Remove the anti-slip tape from the top of the steps - a painter's razor blade helps a lot with this Remove all loose paint with a paint scraper Remove remaining loose paint and as much rust as possible with a wire brush Sand all areas so they are smooth with 100 grit sandpaper Remove all dirt and dust using a wet rag and let dry Use Permatex Rust Treatment to destroy remaining rust and prep for paint. Use three, thin coats waiting no more than 2-3 minutes between coats. Allow to completely cure for 24 hours before continuing Use Rustoleum Farm Spray Paint, Gloss Black and apply three thin coats, waiting about 3 hours in between each. Allow to completely dry for 24 hours before continuing
	Replace the 17/64 inch Step-Bumpers on the front, underside of the top step (right and left) - circled in the picture. Be patient, these take a little work to get them fully inserted into the holes Measure and cut the Yellow/Black Anti-Slip Tape - I used just over a roll (so, buy two). Make sure to lay them all our before actually adhering them to the steps so that the yellow stripes line up nicely. Also, make sure to measure and cut the lower-step front row smaller so that the new step-bumpers hit the painted metal and not the anti-slip tape Once the layout looks good, use a Corner Chomper to round out all the corners of the anti-slip tape - this will help prevent it from pealing off and it looks good Prepare the raised-rows of each step for the anti-slip tape by using a cloth and a little Denatured Alcohol to ensure they are free from any dirt/dust/oils/etc Finally and carefully, peal the back off the anti-slip tape and carefully adhere to the raised-rows of each step making sure to firmly press it on and hold for 30 seconds each That's it, now the steps not only look great, but they will not rust for many many years!
GOT MICE?	[back to top]
	Mice and rats can do a lot of very expensive damage to your RV. They like the electrical wire wrapping and make their nests with all the insulation around. If you see evidence of mice, the first step is to get rid of them before doing any blocking. I used the old standard mouse trap and killed them! Next, you need to add the wire mesh cloth using stainless steal screws to the two air intake areas in the front (see pictures on left).
	You should also get underneath your RV and close up any holes/gaps. You will be surprised how many access points there are and those little creatures can fit through some amazingly small holes. I used Great Stuff to seal them up and then covered them up with the Wheather proof Gorilla tape. To keep them from coming back, I use the Plug-in Ultrasonic Pest Repeller. Just set it in the middle of the floor and plug it in. No more rat/mice problems!
SURVIVING THE WINTER	[back to top]
	How much or little of this you do really depends on how cold for how long. Protect the fresh water coming into the RV - get a Heated Hose with Thermostat. Fill your fresh water tank, use the pump, and leave the external water supply closed unless filling. Protect your fresh water storage - using one of these reptile heat lamps (Heating Lamp Stand, Heating Lamp Bulb and Auto On-Off Thermostat) and put it in your water bay. Protect your holding tanks - Add a small amount of RV Anti-Freeze to your drains so the holding tanks valves do not freeze. Most of the time, your tanks will be fine with just the heat from the RV. Keep your waste tank valves CLOSED until you need to dump and only dump when full, then re-add a bit of anti-freeze. Keep your living space as efficiently warm as possible: Install vent cover(s) Install roof AC cover(s) Cover windows with Reflectix and use heavy curtains Seal any drafts in the doors Insulate the "garage" bays and floor with foam board and Reflectix Help insulate the floor of the RV with some heavy throw rugs If the park allows it, install RV skirting. The wind blowing under your RV can freeze the water tanks and will suck heat out of the RV Service the propane heater Use a couple of these portable electric heaters to reduce the cost of propane Finally, make sure you have some warm sweaters and blanket - just reducing the thermostat by a few degrees can make a big difference in propane use!
WATER SYSTEM	[back to top]
	Water tank and system disinfecting I usually do this about once per year or after the RV has been sitting for a long time unused. Use regular Clorox liquid bleach - nothing with added scent, etc. Remove any water filter cartridges from their canisters (under the sink, etc) and install the bypass plug (or if yours does not have this, close them back up without the cartridge) 1/2 cup per 30 gal of water - more is NOT better and can harm the plumbing. Fill the fresh water tank about 1/2 way, poor in 1/2 cup bleach, fill the rest of the water tank to full Drive around for about 5 minutes to mix it up Turn the pump on and run water from each faucet, the shower, and the toilet until you can smell bleach from each Let sit for 24 hours Turn the pump on and run water from each faucet, the shower, and the toilet until water tank is empty Fill water tank completely with fresh water and run each faucet, the shower, and the toilet for a few minutes each until the water tank is empty and/or both grey and black tanks are full Fill water tank completely with fresh water Let grey and black tanks sit for 24 hours Dump black and grey tanks Dump water tank Fill water tank completely again with fresh water Turn pump on and run water from each faucet, the shower, and the toilet for at least a minute each Replace any water filter cartridges removed from the first step. This is an excellent time to replace the filter. This is the water filter I use which is about one third the cost of the OEM one Use plumbers grease on toilet ring Done. You now have sanitized tanks and water system
WASH/PROTECT	[back to top]
	Whenever, Dry Wash If you do the annual full-wash, polish, and protect, you can do this whenever you need to clean and bring the shine back! This is really nice when staying at a park that does not allow water washing. Simply use the Aircraft/RV Wash with the wet/dry applicator. Spray the wet side of the applicator with wash and wipe off the grime, then use the dry side to bring the shine back! Work in 3 foot sections at a time. See the Wash Purchases area for full product descriptions/links
	Annual Full-Wash, Polish, and Protect I do this yearly or whenever the "Whenever, Dry Wash" does not bring back the desired shine. This whole process usually takes me an entire day and should be done in cooler weather, so plan ahead. Make sure you have a lot of microfiber towels on hand! Start by using a pressure washer with a foam cannon with Auto Wash in it. This makes the wash go very fast! Use the medium scrub brush on the roof first and rinse the roof completely. Then move to the rest of the RV using the soft scrub brush on an extendable pole, then rinse. Next, polish. You will want to get this light weight polisher it is worth every cent! This is the most time consuming step. Use a good quality Polishing Glaze.If you have scratches, use a more abrasive polish like Diamond Cut Compound or Oxidation Remover Compound on those sections first, then come back with the regular polish. It is very important to work in small, 3 foot square sections because you do not want to let it dry before wiping off! (see Wash Purchases for polisher, polish, etc). Once polishing is complete, it is time to apply the high-gloss protection. This is done INSTEAD OF wax. With this you apply in TWO VERY THIN coats - this will give almost 100% UV protection on the finish and help to avoid oxidation (for removing oxidation, use an oxidation remover before polish). I apply with a separate polishing pad and work on half the RV at a time - apply to half, then go back and remove with the Microfiber Towels to finish the shine! To reach the roof and, especially, the front, I use two Little Giant Ladders with an Extendable Plank between them. I purchased these when I painted my house, so the cost was competey worth it. Not sure it would be worth it just for washing (but, this setup is ideal for it!) See the Wash Purchases area for full product descriptions and links.

MAINTENANCE CHECKLIST

MERCEDES SPRINTER SERVICE CHECKLIST

WINTERIZING CHECKLIST

REFRIGERATOR MAINTENANCE CHECKLIST

RESET ONEPLACE

CAB / SEATS

INTERNET ACCESS

FRONT STEPS

GOT MICE?

SURVIVING THE WINTER

WATER SYSTEM

WASH/PROTECT